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Our
featured chef serves up a special dish using ingredients that were
chosen from Melissa's list of quality fresh produce products. This
seemingly simple dish has deceptively complex flavors using just three
ingredients that are amongst Melissa's most popular fresh specialty
items: Radicchio, Baby Spinach and Cipolline Onions. It is said that the most efficient engine is the one with the least amount of parts. If that is true, then Vincent DeAngelo’s Cipolline Glazed Radicchio is a recipe for understated perfection!
Each night, Chef DeAngelo celebrates the local bounty of California's
Central Valley from the kitchen of his own DeAngelo's Italian
Restaurant, located in the historic, old-brick section of downtown
Merced, California. Many of his regular clientele are professional
growers who produced the ingredients that the chef serves in an
atmosphere that is comfortable, yet elegant in style. In fact, several
loyal customers returned the favor by serving the chef, so to speak,
with support beyond patronage, that enabled Chef Vinnie to open
DeAngelo's in the first place; a story that needs a bit of background
to explain.
Chef Vincent DeAngelo's culinary résumé includes formal training at New
York's famed Culinary Institute of America, stints as Executive Pastry
Chef at two of that city's premiere dining establishments, and a
notable collection of autographed pictures with Hollywood celebrities
who have trekked miles (in their limos) to taste his talents. While
this dynamic chef’s career path has meandered from the Big Apple to the
shores of San Diego and through a few of the most well-known kitchens
in the San Francisco Bay Area, Chef Vinnie has found his own personal
and professional comfort zone in the heart of California's Central
Valley for the past eleven years. Here, surrounded by some of the most
fertile farmland in the world, he serves the hard-working professional
growers of the region, who appreciate better than anyone the diversity
of fresh flavor that this area produces.
Vinnie's father, a career chef himself, worked at such iconic
destinations as Miami's Fontainebleau Hotel and the famed Madison
Square Garden in New York. So it is no surprise that his son remembers
wanting to be a master chef since the age of fourteen. The chef
snitches on himself with a story about growing up in New York: DeAngelo
recalls that he used to ditch school to cook for his friends. While
both parents were at work, he would invite his friends over to his
house and, using vegetables from the family garden, prepare meals for
his schoolmates. Parents today can only dream of this kind of harmless
deception from their own little bundles of adolescent joy! Playing
pretend restaurant chef with only live herbs as his weapons of choice,
even counting the lost school days, sure beats the violence found in
Nintendo-land these days!
Vince's specialty and focus at the Institute was pastry. His natural
talents were spotted almost immediately, which graduated him right into
the deep-end of the NYC culinary pool with early positions at the famed
Rainbow Room and the Hemsley Palace Hotel. "The discipline learned
through pastry helps prepare one for the necessary organization needed
to manage the business part of a successful restaurant," he explained.
A vacation to the shores of San Diego turned into his first
entrepreneurial experience, a successful bakery shop that gave him the
confidence to return to his east coast roots a few years later where he
expanded beyond desserts. "No doubt my early training, with pastry
being a kind of heavy medicine-ball, made the transition to preparing
main-course dishes a relative ease. I still love to bake. When I bake,
I am a Master Pastry Chef to the toes. When I am working on the other
courses of a meal, I am a committed and focused Chef de Partie. It’s
all a part of the one kitchen for me and I love every part of it!"
Chef Vinnie has an infectious enthusiasm for his craft that keeps him
going and going, like the rabbit with the drum in the commercial, but
much more animated. He came to Merced with a friend to open a very
successful eatery featuring Basque cuisine. However, when his business
partner, who was the main underpin to the Basque motif, fell ill after
only a few years in business, Vinnie's kitchen went dark for a time.
However, it wasn't too long before a group of ex-patrons approached him
with an offer to provide some financial support that he could not
refuse and DeAngelo's Italian Restaurant was born.
This group was comprised mostly of local growers in the Merced area who
wanted to see this talented chef stay in town. It took the chef only
five years to buy out his benevolent partners, and his drum has been
pounding out new ways to practice his craft ever since.
To capture a clientele looking for more casual fare than what the main
dining room offers, the bar of DeAngelo's has been expanded into a
pizzeria called Bellini's, serving light entrees, and inventive pizzas
from a huge brick oven i.e. THE CENTRAL VALLEY - Grilled eggplant, olives, basil, sun-dried tomato, goat cheese, caramelized onions and basil oil.
This industrious chef is currently developing a pickled product with
one of his grower partner/patrons for export to the Far East. He is
also about to rekindle a long-time feature in the local newspaper, The
Merced Sun-Star, called The Valley Chef. The feature involves the chef
visiting growers in their fields where he interviews them about the
proper growing, storage and handling of the crops they produce, and
then includes the many approaches to preparing the spotlighted crop for
his readership. The Valley Chef has also been hired by local producers
to put on both informative and entertaining shows right in the field,
demonstrating recipes from a tent kitchen for promotional events.
It is worth noting that this writer was lucky enough to experience the
dish first-hand during a recent visit to DeAngelo's with, you guessed
it, a local grower. My dining partners were members of the Marchini
family – Joe, Jeff and Mark – Melissa’s radicchio suppliers who led me
to Vinnie's table in the course of doing another feature for the
Melissa's website last spring. But that night we were all simply
appreciative guests, who found ourselves giving the exquisite meal a
spontaneous and well-deserved round of applause at the evening's end.
Your own need to applaud will definitely happen if you ever get a
chance to visit DeAngelo's; but the same sound of both hands clapping
by family and friends can be experienced in the privacy of the reader’s
own kitchen through the attached recipe. Enjoy!
One of the main ingredients in Chef Vinnie's featured dish is
Radicchio; to learn more about this versatile leaf item go to this
month's Produce Corner.
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